Raising Altum Angelfish Fry First Feeding, Growth and Breeding Records

Between hatching and actively feeding, altum angelfish fry still go through changes in how they use their yolk, how active they are and how well they swim. Rearing starts with watching how this particular batch is developing and what the fry actually swallow, and only then planning food, meal frequency and cleaning. If some fish in the group keep missing out, or feeding more only leaves more uneaten food, it's time to go back and review how the batch is being managed.

◑Time first feeding by development and feeding response

Each day, under similar lighting, check the outline of the yolk sac, whether the fry are still attached, how active they are and how they swim. Free swimming is an important clue, but you still need a small trial feeding to confirm whether the fry chase and swallow food; don't keep adding food to the tank just because a certain day has arrived. Food that isn't eaten won't improve first-feeding success just because there's more of it.^[1]

Fornbäck recorded one case in which the fry were free-swimming on "day seven after spawning" and accepted brine shrimp nauplii later that same day. That can't be rewritten as "seven days after hatching," and it isn't a common deadline for every water temperature and setup. Keep a record of the spawning time and water temperature, and judge by how this batch of fry is developing and responding.^[2]

◑Research evidence on brine shrimp as a first food, and preparing the supply

In a 2014 first-feeding study of altum angelfish by Torres-Tabares et al., the abstract compares live brine shrimp nauplii, decapsulated brine shrimp cysts and wild zooplankton, and reports better overall production performance in the live brine shrimp group. Differences in final weight between groups were not significant, while specific growth rate and survival did differ significantly. This is original research involving Pterophyllum altum, so it speaks more directly to the question in this article than general angelfish data.^[3]

This series checked only the study abstract, so we don't fill in unverified details such as trial water temperature, amount per feeding or number of feedings per day. The trial didn't compare Ultra Fresh commercial dry foods, and the study can't be used to show that a dry food fully replaces live brine shrimp. Keepers can use it to prioritize first foods backed by relevant research, but in practice the plan still has to fit what the batch actually swallows and the maintenance you can keep up with.^[3]

Before spawning, make sure your process for hatching, collecting and continuously supplying brine shrimp is in place. Follow the instructions for your hatching product to separate live nauplii from shells and unhatched cysts, and collect and rinse them properly so you don't pour large amounts of salt water, shells and debris into the rearing water. Keep food-handling tools separate from other aquarium equipment; sourcing and cleanliness also affect risk.^[4]

◑Feed small amounts per meal and follow up with cleaning

For the first trial feeding, offer a small amount of food you can easily see, and watch whether the fry gather to chase it, whether they can swallow it and whether any individuals keep falling behind. Once feeding is confirmed, add a little more; if food isn't being taken, stop and watch rather than compensating with larger amounts. Keep lighting just bright enough to see behavior, and don't expose the fry to long periods of strong light or move them around for photos.

Meal frequency during first feeding and early rearing should be planned around development, acceptance and the actual load on the system; you can't simply apply the two to three daily feedings recommended for adult-fish products. The data checked for this series isn't enough to set a fixed number of feedings or grams per meal that applies to all fry. Set up feeding times you can sustain, and each time record the amount offered, how much was swallowed, leftovers and cleaning, so any change in frequency or portion has a basis.

After each feeding, remove obvious leftovers and debris, keep oxygen levels adequate, and test for ammonia and nitrite. Before siphoning or changing water, check the tube opening, intake guards and new-water conditions so you don't suck up fry or introduce a large temperature difference. Keep biological filtration stable, and check more often when the container is small or the load changes; clear water doesn't prove that nitrogenous waste isn't building up.^[7][6]

◑Transition to prepared foods gradually, starting with small trial feedings

Once the fry are feeding consistently, assess which prepared foods are suitable. Ultra Fresh NEWBORN FISH micron shrimp patties can be one option for stepwise trial feeding; whether it suits your fry depends on this batch's mouth size, acceptance and later body condition, and the product name alone doesn't mean every newly feeding fry will eat it. Confirm particle size and usage specifications on the package you actually have, so information from different versions doesn't get mixed up.^[5]

During trial feeding, keep supplying the food the fry already accept, and introduce the new food in small amounts first. If fry chase the food but keep spitting it out, check its size and acceptance rather than compensating with more food. Keep recording swallowing, belly outline, leftovers, growth and survival before gradually adjusting the proportions; without validation for the matching age and product, we make no promise that it fully replaces live food or guarantees successful rearing.

◑Reassess stocking density and tank splits as the fish grow

As the same number of fish grows, both feeding and waste load increase. Density has to be judged together with body size, usable swimming space, oxygenation, filtration, feeding and your capacity for water changes; it can't be set as a fixed limit of so many fish per liter. Rearing numbers in the book reflect experience with specific systems, and converting them directly into quotas for a home tank easily overlooks the management conditions behind them.^[1][6]

If smaller fish are persistently unable to get to food, the size gap widens, or fish keep hiding from chasing, first consider spreading out feeding spots, adding usable space or splitting them into separate tanks. Before splitting, prepare a system that can reliably handle the load and compare the water quality of the old and new tanks; don't turn a competition problem into an ammonia and nitrite buildup in the new tank. After the move, track feeding and water quality again.^[6][7]

◑Track growth and fins using a consistent method

Take photos on fixed dates from similar angles, keeping camera distance and a scale reference consistent so differences in shooting distance aren't mistaken for growth. Body length and total height with fins extended are different measurements and should be recorded separately. Track the smallest individuals, the size spread and feeding at the same time; an increase in average size doesn't mean every fish is getting enough food. Observe mainly from outside the tank, and avoid taking fish out of the water just to measure them frequently.

Fin extension, damage, left-right symmetry and swimming balance are clues worth tracking, but short fin filaments or a single photo can't diagnose a nutritional deficiency or bacterial infection. The book author's explanations of rearing abnormalities should be treated as observations from individual cases; if things keep getting worse, injuries increase or fish die, bring together your water quality, feeding and tank-split records and ask an aquatic animal veterinarian for an assessment.^[1][8]

◑Record breeding problems in stages you can trace back

For each batch, build a timeline across six stages: broodstock condition, pair interaction, spawning, fertilization and embryo development, hatching, and rearing after first feeding. Add the dates of water changes, food, equipment, transfers and tank splits. Methods from the different breeders in the book can help you spot gaps in your records, but they can't be pieced together into a recipe that guarantees success; the supplementary article on print pp. 278–282 is by Yang Chien-sheng and should be cited separately from Linke's main text.^[1]

Success rates need a denominator and a time frame. State up front whether hatching rate is calculated from all eggs or only from eggs confirmed as fertilized; for rearing survival, define the starting number of fish and the endpoint of tracking. If you can't count reliably, note that the data is insufficient rather than filling in a precise percentage. If results change after switching foods, you still need to review differences in broodstock, tanks and management; you can't simply write that a product improved fertilization or hatching rates.

If you see repeated mass deaths, persistently abnormal breathing, obvious injuries or unexplained changes in appearance, first check the equipment and water quality, and give an aquatic animal veterinarian your videos, timeline and test results. Records help narrow down the problem, but diagnosing disease still requires the appropriate examinations, and switching foods is no substitute for a diagnosis.^[8]

◑Frequently asked questions

◑Further reading

• Altum angelfish care guide→
• Altum angelfish breeding guide→